游记 | 在棉花堡，寻找柔软的午后时光
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前情回顾：伊斯坦布尔》圣索菲亚/蓝色清真寺/托卡比皇宫//苏莱曼清真寺//塔克西姆广场//巴拉特街区//以弗所
Pamukkale
2015/12/30 @ 棉花堡
收拾好行装，我们坐上一辆小巴，背向爱琴海，驶入阿纳托利亚深处。
抵达棉花堡山脚下时，大约是中午。
Leaving the Aegean Sea behind, we took a minibus and traveled further into the Anatolia Peninsula. It was around noon when we reached Pamukkale.
漫步于木栈道上，湖光山色间，邂逅一枚狗子，有点像柯基又有点像腊肠。
在温暖午后阳光的照射下，狗子惬意神情散发着迷人的慵懒气息，仿佛每一根每一缕毛发都在对旅人们传递着邀请：欢迎来到冬日里的温泉乡。
A dorgi-looking (i.e. Dachsund-Corgi) dog greeted us at the end of the trail. And who can be a better ambassador than this good boi-- himself chilling in the warm afternoon sun-- to offer the most inviting welcome to a hot spring? "A winter wonderland must be ahead waiting for us." We thought.
富含矿物质的流水铸就了棉花堡。
17处温泉将35至100摄氏度的热水传输至320米高的山顶。在那里，含超饱和碳酸氢钙的温泉水涌出地表，沿着山坡顺流而下，遇冷后释放二氧化碳、析出碳酸钙。碳酸钙凝胶渐渐沉淀，并最终形成石灰岩层。
The landscape is formed by the flowing mineral-rich water. 17 hot springs with temperature ranging from 95 F to 212 F transport water 1050 ft to the top of the mountain. As supersaturated water reaches the surface and cools down, carbon dioxide de-gasses, and the remaining calcium carbonate was deposited on the way as a soft gel which eventually crystallizes into travertine.
自古希腊罗马时期，这里的温泉就吸引着慕名而来的疲惫旅人。公元前二世纪，温泉疗养地——希拉波利斯("圣城")建立。
The thermal springs has been attracting weary travelers ever since the Classical Antiquity. The ancient Greek spa town, Hierapolis (literally "Holy City"), was founded in the 2nd century BCE.
到了二十世纪中叶，来自世界各地的游客更是络绎不绝。为了寻求身心的平静，人们走进棉花堡，将自己浸没在温暖的泉水中，倚着山腰，眺望远处的层峦叠嶂。棉花堡上也于是兴建了大量度假酒店，甚至在洁白的山坡上开辟出一条道路，用摩托车运送旅客和物资。
一直到1988年，联合国教科文组织将棉花堡-希拉波利斯列入世界遗产名录，环境保护才终于受到重视。
Tourism boomed in the mid-20th century, as waves of people poured into the Cotton Castle. Enjoying tranquility in their body and mind, they sat in the natural warm mineral pools and gazed at the endless mountains. Resorts were built one after another on top of the hills. A path for motorcycles was carved out on the snow-white slope to better serve the tourists. It was until more than two decades later, when UNESCO recognized Pamukkale-Hierapolis as a World Heritage Site, that preservation and restoration projects finally began.
如今，游客必须赤足踏上地质保护区。
——这哪里是棉花堡呀！简直是刀山。
远看无比软萌的白色石灰岩，原以为会像被流水磨平了棱角的鹅卵石一样光滑，而实际上，钙质一点点沉积，所经之处，仿佛留下了一地的玻璃渣。
As a measure to protect the natural site, visitors are now required to walk on the terraces with bare feet only.-- Nay! Rather than "Cotton Castle", this place shall be named "Mountain of Blades". Don't let its fluffy appearance mislead you. The calcium carbonate sediments are as sharp as a thousand glass shards.
pic: 萌娘百科
由于我们并不能接近真正的泉眼，一路上，都是蓝色的、冰凉的水，以及尖锐到仍然能够刺痛早已冻得麻木的双脚的崎岖地面。
Since we could not get any close to the actual hot springs, we often found ourselves walking in the ice-cold water. And the uneven rock surface never failed to send a piercing pain despite our numbness in the feet.
但面前的景色，又让人忍不住再向前多走几步——无论是棉云一般的山壁、从远处看起来依旧柔软蓬松得仿佛是打发奶油的石灰岩阶梯，还是有着魔幻波纹的池底。
Nevertheless, we did not stop walking. The magic mountains were calling us. From a distance, the terraces still looked very much like scoops of whipped cream, and sediments underneath us were no less mesmerizing than kaleidoscopes.
一鼓作气走到尽头，折返，终于放松地坐在石阶的边缘。
感谢善良的园区留下一条流淌着汩汩热泉的水渠，让新世纪的旅人也仍然有幸享受几乎被前人挥霍殆尽的大自然。
When we returned to the entrance, we finally had the courage to sit down on the slope and put our feet in the hot spring water-- otherwise, we would never be able to walk any further. The park had kindly left a ditch for contemporary travelers to experience the joy of the ancient Greeks and ancient Romes and the unaccommodating tourists from the 1960s.
傍晚，我们将要继续向东，朝着内陆进发。
Boosted by the energy from Pamukkale, we continued eastward at dusk.
○ 未完待续……
雕刻峡谷的风，穿过峡谷的风
一天的行程整理了好多天年。回忆以前的旅程，想起了许多早已忘记的事情，也找到了很多当时没有来得及了解的故事。
要是那个时候拿更好的相机拍更多的照片就好了（iPhone3GS如今也难得一见）；要是那个时候待得久一点、走得再慢一点，给自己多空出一点时间写下当时的感受就好了。（虽然我至今也没有能够做到。）
话说两三四五年过去了，随着开发和修缮，景色大概又变得更加迷人了吧。
至于吃喝，基本靠Yelp，也可随缘看人气。
两年四年过去了，曾经去过的餐厅或许已经物是人非，但做出幸福味道的店家一定能在某时某处再相遇。
原标题：《游记 | 在棉花堡，寻找柔软的午后时光《 土耳其，2015年冬，其六》
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