比发丝还细的金丝,如芝麻般大小的纹样,制作这样一件灵动优美、精致细腻花丝镶嵌饰品,就好比在金上刺绣,考验的是匠人精湛的技艺与持久的耐心。

“90后”小伙辜国强与花丝镶嵌的缘分始于7年前。他在北京学习文物修复的过程中,偶然看到老师正在修复一件花丝镶嵌工艺制成的“银镀金葫芦簪”,20岁的他迅速爱上了这门古老的手艺,在返回家乡后开始跟随重庆省级工艺美术大师李昌义学习花丝镶嵌技艺。
Gu Guoqiang, born in 1994, fell in love with the filigree mosaic craft seven years ago during his study in Beijing for restoration of cultural relics. Fascinated by a filigree mosaic work of his master, he returned to his hometown Chongqing and took provincial-level master of arts and crafts Li Changyi as his new master.
老祖宗留下的技艺,不能让它失传
辜国强从小对我国传统文化有着浓厚兴趣,中学时学习过国画,在大学时期学习的是瓷器专业,后来他还做过拍卖鉴定师,并到故宫进行了为期半年的瓷器文物修复学习。在此过程中,辜国强有幸接触和了解到了花丝镶嵌这门艺术。
Gu guoqiang showed keen interest in painting as a child. He studied sketching and traditional Chinese painting in middle school. In 2010, he enrolled in the School of Ceramic Art at the Jingdezhen Ceramic University in Jiangxi province. After graduating four years later, Gu worked as an auction appraiser before getting the chance to study ceramic restoration under a master who repairs cultural relics in Beijing's Palace Museum. During his month with the master, he was introduced to filigree mosaic craft by chance.

花丝镶嵌工艺又称细金工艺,是一门传承久远的中国传统手工技艺,最早可以追溯到春秋战国时期,2008年被列入国家级非物质文化遗产名录。它以金、银等为原料,采用掐、填、攒等技法,将仅有0.16毫米粗的金丝拉伸、缠绕,经灼烧熔化制成千姿百态的造型。
Filigree Mosaic craft, a traditional Chinese aulic handicraft dating back to the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476BC), uses metal such as gold and silver to fold artwork inlaid with gemstone or pearl. It is also called fine gold craft as it usually uses spun gold as thin as 0.16 millimeters to form various shapes, and was listed as one of China's national intangible cultural heritages in 2008.
大学毕业后 ,辜国强于2015年回到重庆开始拜师,学习花丝镶嵌技艺。
With a desire to keep the craft alive, he returned to Chongqing in 2015 to study the intangible cultural heritage art.

“刚开始学习的时候,有时也会感到枯燥,因为很多时候都在重复相同的动作。”辜国强说,“花丝镶嵌要求非常精细,尤其考验人的耐心,必须静得下心来。”整个制作过程繁复且枯燥,还要常常承受失败的打击。
当时想要拉成一条0.8毫米的银丝都会让他抓狂,但是辜国强告诉自己:“如果别人能学会,自己为什么不行呢?”一想到自己的梦想,辜国强就立刻有了坚持下去的动力。
"The training was very, very difficult and tedious, at first," said Gu, adding that he often became frustrated trying to weld 0.8-millimeter silver thread on a silver plate. "It is incredibly intricate. A little too much melting can ruin an entire piece." "But if others could learn, why shouldn't I?" Gu told himself whenever he felt like giving up, and remembered his dream and practiced even harder.

辜国强正在制作花丝镶嵌工艺品。图源:新华社
一天的工作经常让他眼睛干涩,但是经过一点点的努力,他终于可以拉出如发丝一般纤细的花丝,制作出灵动的花丝镶嵌作品。
His eyes often felt dry after a day's work, but little by little, he learned to draw the metal into threads thinner than a hair and create vivid pieces of art.
直播推广传统手艺,作品远销海外
随着学习和制作的深入,辜国强愈发感受到花丝镶嵌的魅力。
2017年,辜国强成立了工作室,开始探索利用花丝镶嵌传统技艺,制作适合现代人佩戴的饰品,让传统工艺焕发新生机。
In 2017, Gu Guoqiang set up his own studio, exploring a way to make filigree mosaic accessories fitting for modern people. He tries to absorb traditional Chinese culture concepts in his designs, and also takes into account modern taste and use habits.

辜国强与工作室职工交流花丝镶嵌技术(2022年1月25日摄)

工作室设计制作的花丝镶嵌工艺品。图源:新华社
除了埋头苦干,辜国强还想方设法“推销”花丝镶嵌技艺。“我可能是最早一批在快手短视频平台直播的手艺人。”辜国强说,通过在短视频平台分享花丝镶嵌的历史、技艺、意义,让更多年轻人了解这门传统技艺。目前,辜国强在快手平台上有近30万粉丝,还有年轻粉丝专程到重庆找他拜师学艺。
In order to promote the craft, he shares his works through various platforms and is now followed by 300,000 fans on the popular smartphone app Kuaishou. Some followers even come to Chongqing to learn this craft from him.

辜国强通过直播平台,向观众介绍花丝镶嵌作品
为了更符合现代人的佩戴习惯,辜国强还将传统技艺与现代审美结合,创造了不少新颖有趣的工艺品,吸引了不少年轻消费者。

这是辜国强创作的花丝镶嵌作品 (2022年1月25日摄)
“这件作品名叫‘凤引九雏’,是我很满意的一件作品。”辜国强端起一顶精美的凤冠,冠上的龙、凤、流苏都可单独拆卸,每一样也可单独搭配发髻装饰,增加了头冠的实用性,为日常搭配提供了更多可能。

辜国强在检查花丝镶嵌作品“凤引九雏”。

辜国强在组装花丝镶嵌作品“凤引九雏”。
借助社交媒体的传播,辜国强的作品逐渐获得了海外关注。一些外籍人士、华人华侨主动联系购买其作品。如今,辜国强的工作室一个月销售约300件花丝镶嵌作品,其中不少远销美国、日本等国家。
Nowadays, Gu's studio sells about 300 filigree mosaic artworks per month, many of which are ordered by people overseas.
“让更多人了解它、认识它、拥有它,让这项传统技艺真正走入大众生活,是我们这群手艺人的心愿。 ”辜国强说。
来源:新华社 央视网 大公报 重庆晚报 中国日报
本文转载自21世纪英文报,已获授权
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